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dlee doctor
Joined: 07 Nov 2006 Posts: 1459 Location: E. Syracuse NY |
Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 9:42 am Post subject: 2710/2900 Charge wire |
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Can I substitute a Corona charge wire from any of the current KIP models (2k,3k,5k,6k,8k) for the 2710/2900. I have all of these in stock and have never had the need to order for the 2710/2900. I got a call from a non-customer that has a 2900 and needs service. |
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phan6622 doctor
Joined: 09 Feb 2007 Posts: 750 Location: Midwest |
Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Yes.. I use the same 80 micron on all kip models... I don't know about length... I am sure you can make one work. You should look at buying spools and making your own wires.. $150.00 or so gets you 50 meters of wire. It takes a while to get good at using the spool and twisting the ends, but once you get it, you can replace a wire in about the same time as the factory ones. We get our wire from IPC in California. |
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KIPDOCTOR Site Admin
Joined: 31 Dec 1969 Posts: 1408 Location: Boston Area |
Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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I have used 100 micron gold wire for everything. Period. It is the only wire I carry and the only one you need for anything KIP. _________________ What we have gained in technology, we have lost in humanity. |
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dlee doctor
Joined: 07 Nov 2006 Posts: 1459 Location: E. Syracuse NY |
Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry, should've looked at the manual a little closer. When I got there and opened the hood, I did notice that there is no possible way I could've used any of the other wires (pre-wired). I think I will order a spool of wire, probably the 100 because the Doc uses it. What about tension? Do I just save the little red beads and use them again? Do I just wire and twist right on one end of the spring or do I have to save that little tiny ring and put a wire on that? |
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phan6622 doctor
Joined: 09 Feb 2007 Posts: 750 Location: Midwest |
Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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I twist a loop (using a small phillips) and connect to the post on one side.. then I use the spring to twist the loop on the other end... For tension, we generally want to be able to see between the rungs of the spring... If you can't "see" any space there, then it is not tight enough. YES you need the beads... without them the wire can oscilate and eventually short to the frame. Also want to make sure the ends are not sticking out, they need to be trimmed right to the wire to prevent arcing to frame. (I have seen G Mott twist the end and break it off right at the wire, but I have never been able to figure out how it works, I just trim as close as poss with a side cutters...
We have used 100 in our 8000's and it is generally a little easier to work with (mainly less breaks when installing) I have had luck with 80 and used it for years.. maybe I should run the 100 on the 3/5/6k if it lasts longer??? |
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scott doctor
Joined: 06 Dec 2004 Posts: 570
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Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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A great trick Ray in Irvine taught me to reduce breakage is drop the height adjusters all the way down, string the wire and re-adjust wire height. Works wonders with stock Kip wires or with hand strung ones.
Scott |
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Chazbo doctor
Joined: 05 Jul 2005 Posts: 377
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:33 am Post subject: |
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If the carona wire is KIP oem with ring connector on the end you can remove the spring from the clip on the end block to allow spring to relax. Place a mark on the end block to where the relaxed spring and wire stretches to. The mark should correspond to where the spring attaches to the wire. _________________ Ride To Live |
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